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Volume 1, #4 August 15th, 2001

Archived Newsletters

ST. MAARTEN
A GETAWAY FOR ALL SEASONS AND REASONS

Photos by L.D. Kippel

Summer's almost over, but there's still time to sizzle. With thoughts of autumn's chill imminent, the time is right…for a tropical vacation! It might not seem as appealing as it would in the midst of winter, but gentle ocean breezes and great off-season prices make it well worth investigating.

Not only does St. Maarten/Saint Martin boast some of the nicest beaches in the Caribbean, it offers two diverse cultures to keep you occupied during those times you'd rather not lounge in the sun.

The island is 150 miles southeast of Puerto Rico. It covers 37 square miles, with Dutch St. Maarten on the South spanning 16 square miles and French Saint Martin on the North covering 21 miles. The island is the smallest land mass to be shared by two separate governments.

Philipsburg on Great Bay is the capital of St. Maarten and Marigot is the capital of Saint Martin. English is spoken everywhere, but Dutch and French are the official languages.

The population of the island is 77,000. It is sunny and warm all year, with cooling trade winds. Temperatures average 80 degrees in winter and a few degrees warmer in summer. There are occasional showers in late summer and early fall.

ACCOMODATIONS

There are many decent places to stay on both the Dutch and French side of The island. Villa rentals are a great, inexpensive choice, but be careful to find a place with some security. In recent years, there has been report of robberies in more isolated locations.

The exclusive La Samana hotel is world famous, having hosted many celebrities. Its beautiful snorkeling beach is well thought of, and many travelers cite it as a favorite resort.

A personal favorite of this writer is Le Meridien/L'Habitation. It boasts a wonderful, long stretch of perfect beach, two swimming pools, excellent restaurants and good facilities.

Club Orient is a naturist resort, and those seeking freedom will find plenty of that here. This resort caters to a largely French clientele, so there is a certain air of elitism. But if you've got the figure, flaunt it.

Check the Internet for the many wonderful places to stay on the island. It's all a matter of personal choice.

SHOPPING & DINING

Duty-free shopping is excellent in St. Maarten, with liquor prices lower than any you'll find elsewhere, including the duty free port of St. Thomas, USVI. In fact, prices are low on just about everything in St. Maarten, except food.

In Marigot, the prices are not as low as in Philipsburg, but the shopping experience is vastly different. Marigot is superb for anyone looking for French fashion, and in fact, anything French. There are a few small wine shops where you will find some treasure-Armegnac, cognac and some vintage wines may be pricey, but impossible to find elsewhere. Be careful that such items have been stored properly as the tropical climate can wreak havoc on a rare vintage.

Stay away from chocolate as the heat will often have faded it white, taking away its visually tempting appeal. But keep an eye open in the markets for delightful cheeses, fresh pastries, breads and homemade ice cream.

The restaurants in Marigot are reminiscent of France, with open air cafes, fine French restuarants and crepe shops lining the streets. It is highly recommended that you sample some of these fine eateries during your visit. Shops often close in the middle of the day despite potential consumer activity.

Philipsburg is very different. The main street is lined with electronics, jewelry and souvenir shops. This is a popular cruise ship stop, and depending on the day and time, you may find yourself amidst what will seem like an overcrowded shopping mall on the day after Thanksgiving.

Here is where you will find the best buys on alcohol. Jewelry is intriguing, but make sure you barter, and work with a reputable store. Get a receipt and keep it.

During slow times, Philipsburg's shops will be closed in the middle of the day. Ask your hotel concierge if the shops are open when you want to go.

In the middle of town are several casinos, and there are a total of 12, all on the Dutch side. Gaming is in the European mode. Odds are stacked against you, so spend your money elsewhere.

BEACHES

Beaches on the island are plentiful (there are 36 of them!), and depending on what you look for in a strip of sand, you will find that perfect oasis.

Orient Bay is a clothes optional, busy beach. Restaurants and live music will provide a tropical landscape for your jetski or parasailing adventure.

Cupecoy Beach is surrounded by beautiful rock formations, and there are no services on this beach, so if you time it right you may find yourself in isolated splendor. At the far end of the beach, clothing is optional.

Long Bay is an extension of Cupecoy, but without the rock formations. Le Samana hotel is on its left side, but this beach is long, quiet and great for snorkeling, though there is not much coral.

Maho Beach is located at the end of the airport landing strip, Don't sit in the middle with your umbrellas!

Baie Rouge is a long stretch of beach reminiscent of neighboring Anguilla. You can rent lounge chairs or enjoy a drink and some barbequed chicken. Rent snorkel gear and swim out to the right following the shoreline. You'll see a cave through which you can snorkel and you will find a very private two-person beach.

Be adventurous and check out the many other beaches on the island, including Dawn Beach.

Check out: www.sunfinder.com/st_martin.htm, www.gobeach.com, or search the Internet under St. Maarten.

ALASKA: CRUISING THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Local Artisans Fill the Shops in Alaska - Photo by L.D. Kippel
Local Artisans Fill the Shops in Alaska

With the glut of cruise ships now vying for your travel dollar, it's easy to choose a cruise as your vacation getaway. The ornate décor, promise of limitless activities and food opportunities make the travel destination an afterthought to the opulence of the ship itself, and finding a cruise with interesting ports might not be as easy as it used to be. With so many large cruise ships crowding the market, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find ships that can offer unusual and small ports.

The two-year-old Norwegian Sky is a beautiful ship. Well appointed and spacious, it is a good choice amongst the many other ships doing the Alaska run. It will be moving on to Asia, but this past summer it ran the Alaska gauntlet, and served its passengers well, along with its sister ship, The Wind.

With a good chance of bad weather (it rains or snows an estimated 200 days out of the year), it was surprising that The Sky offered little more than the pre-requisite BINGO tournaments and rip-off art auctions to keep its passengers busy. For the gambling crowd, the casino is big and was extremely active. Payouts were exceptionally good, but Alaska is an amazing place to see, and since casinos do not have windows, it was a shame to miss the views of endless snow covered mountains, whale sightings and the pristine wilderness. But to each his own.

The new sea-going gimmick is Freestyle-Cruising. No set dining times, plenty of dining options, your choice to sit alone or with others at meals, and dressing is a personal choice (thought resort casual was the least expected dinner dress). All-inclusive is also new-instead of tipping each person that provides you with service, a daily gratuity is tacked onto your cruise cost. This may be unfair to your cabin steward who might run that extra mile to get you more pillows in the middle of the night, but as you are not dining with the same wait-staff throughout the cruise, this money is pooled and distributed amongst the entire staff. Essentially, you feel obligated to tip above and beyond for personal services as a result of this. The only difference is the Spa, which adds a 15% gratuity onto your services as they are rendered. Tallying up the ante at the end of a trip can be pretty hefty-after paying for sodas, cocktails, afternoon ice cream (!), morning "fresh-squeezed" OJ (!), specialty restaurant service charges, photos and excursions, be prepared to shell out a few unexpected bucks.

The food was good on the Sky (when available, fresh halibut and salmon were always fine choices), but the reservation-requested Asian-themed restaurant was, by far, the best option onboard--and well-worth the $10 per person additional charge. In addition to great sushi, succulent dishes and awesome desserts, the service was impeccable.

There were many Shore Excursions to choose from, but it was best to make reservations weeks in advance of the cruise as many adventures sold out. With unpredictable weather, there were many last minute cancellations and no-shows, but with a 24-hour minimum cancellation policy, one could see where the profit margin ran high. Kayaking in a torrential downpour in 45-degree temperatures was not very tempting.

Skagway, Alaska - July 4th, 2001 A Black Bear Looking for Dinner at Taku Lodge
Skagway, Alaska - July 4th, 2001 Black Bear Looking for Dinner at Taku Lodge
The Norris Glacier
The Norris Glacier

NORRIS GLACIER

One excursion was most memorable. In Juneau, we boarded a floatplane to Taku Glacier Lodge. We flew over the Juneau Ice Field, Norris Glacier, Taku Glacier and Twin Glaciers, and were given an informative narrative on the way.

Arriving at the lodge, we walked up the path to the rustic cabin. Wildflowers and blueberries were in bloom, and the sweeping vista in front of the lodge was of a still lake backed by the beautiful Hole-In-The-Wall glacier.

A wooded trail provided a great way to walk off the sumptuous dinner of fresh king salmon, homemade biscuits, beans and slaw. Glacier ice chilled our drinks, and local beer warmed our souls. The mosquitoes did not deter the hardy crowd-we were all provided with electrified "tennis-rackets" and encouraged to go hunting. As dusk approached, the mosquitoes were thick. But the fun we all had with the rackets took away from the otherwise misery of swatting, making great sport of a generally annoying activity.

After walking through the woods, we were in front to the lodge when off to the right emerged a beautiful black bear who'd come looking for dinner remains. It was a great photo opportunity, and added a bit of adventure to the wonderful outting. As it had emerged from the same area we had just minutes before been hiking through, it was a stark reminder of the fact that nature is in full control and we are only observers.

Our hosts at Taku Lodge were friendly and informative, and it was tempting to miss the flight back to town...

We had treated ourselves to the Owner's Suite on this cruise. It was large with a sitting room/dining room, guest bathroom, bedroom and full bath and shower. Our patio had a hot tub and was large enough to hold a small gathering, but it was at the very front of the ship, facing forward. For a destination such as Alaska, where most of the sights drift by, we missed quite a bit by just seeing what our forward view allowed us. But the room was comfortable, and provided a great place to sit with friends and share stories and desserts. We spent a lot of time in that room owing to the lack of shipboard activities.

The Jean Ann Ryan Company, part of the Norwegian Cruise Line entertainment experience, put on some gala performances, but there was one couple that sang at a large party of Latitudes members (multiple-time NCL cruisers) that were so bad that it was sad. (Someone kept pointing out the fact that they were actually ballet dancers...)

Overall, the shipboard options were not up to par with the many past cruises we'd taken on NCL.

www.NCL.com

HONEST TRAVEL DESTINATION HIGHLIGHT
SAVAGE RIVER LODGE, GARRET COUNTY, MARYLAND

The Maryland panhandle offers an abundance of wilderness, pristine rivers and lush landscapes. Located just west of Frostburg down a mile-and-a-half dirt road, in the midst of nowhere, is an oasis offering the best in rustic elegance. You won't find a television, but rocking chairs beckon you to take in the quiet from the porch of one of the 18 cabins available. Lounge in an overstuffed chair and read a good book. Have a cup of tea and listen to the majestic silence just outside your door.

At the lodge, a gourmet dinner is offered. Diners travel from miles away to partake in the culinary delights offered, and after one meal, it is easy to understand why. Fresh food presented in delightful fashion, each dish a gastronomic delight. Choose to sit in the dining room, or opt for a patio table overlooking the deer as they graze at dusk.

After a great meal, take a leisurely walk back to your cabin serenaded by a choir of crickets and cicadas.

The comfy down comforter and fluffy pillows are inviting after a day of traveling or sightseeing in this historic area known best for its white water recreation, fly fishing, downhill and cross-country skiing, hunting and outdoor pursuits.

www.savageriverlodge.com, 301-689-3200.


HONEST TRAVEL
A Division of Brown Communications
Vol. 1 #4 / August 15th, 2001
Publisher: Leslie D. Kippel
Editor: Toni A. Brown
P.O. Box 98
Brooklyn, NY 11229
(718) 258-0009


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